Lore • South America • Spain • Selection • Nutrition • Preparation
Artichokes have a great deal in common with lobsters…it’s hard to imagine how anyone saw their potential. Artichokes are one of those foods you either love, or hate...or haven't tried. It's surprising how many people are intimidated by this thorny-looking green, which resembles a Christmas tree, or maybe a green pine cone. Safe to say, though, that if you have never tried an artichoke, you don't know what you’re missing. It’s not a small plant. Size has little to do with quality or flavor, but those with compact, heavy, plump globes which yield slightly to pressure and which have large, tightly clinging fleshy leaves are the best. Choose deep-green, heavy artichokes with leaves that squeak when pressed together. Browning may mean old age, bruise injury, or frost. Refrigerate, unwashed, in plastic bags up to 6 –8 days at 32F with high humidity.
Lore
Controversy still exists about whether the artichoke is a flower, thistle, or a vegetable, but for our purposes we shall say that an artichoke is an herbageous perennial, with strong, prickly, deeply–cut leaves, and large terminal heads, harvested before they bloom, of the thistle that is a relative of sunflowers. The artichoke is, in fact, a giant closed blossom; the “leaves” we peel off to get to the heart are actually petals, and in a season when it’s difficult to find fresh vegetables, this flower blooms all winter.
The latin name for artichoke comes from a story about a beautiful girl named Cinara, who angered Jupiter, who turned her into an artichoke. Many ancient legends tell of humans, being turned into plants, by the gods as an honor, but turning Cinana into a prickly artichoke was definitely a punishment! In the Bible, Job associated the artichoke with pain and suffering, in contrast with grain, which was linked to prosperity and happiness. In spite of such negative connotations, Mediterranean people have long enjoyed artichokes’ delicious flavor, and honored its nutritional and medicinal values. Artichokes hail from the family Asteraccae (compositae), so named because the members have small flowers (florets) born in dense composite heads resembling single flowers. The basic plant is (Cynara Scolymus). It is a particularly temperamental plant, craving rain and fog, but requiring very good drainage; relishing cool weather, but dying when exposed to frost; needing clear air, but suffering much damage from any great sun exposure. Artichoke plants are beautiful, like giant ferns – six (6) feet in diameter, and 3-4 feet high. If allowed to flower, they have blossoms up to seven inches across, and a beautiful violet-blue color. It is propogated by seeds or by suckers (shoots).
The name came from the Arabic “al kharshuf”, and was brought by Moroccan invaders to Spain, where it became “alcachofa”. In the 9th or 10th century,the Italians changed it to "carciofa". It derives its common name from the Northern Italian words “Articol” and “Articolos”. Records of the vegetable being consumed go back 2000 years.
According to Patricia Rain's "The Artichoke Cookbook", the first written record of artichokes in the United States was in McMahon's Gardeners Catalogue in 1806. The artichoke’s best-known relatives include lettuce, sunflowers, asters, endive and chicory. In the mid-1800's, French immigrants brought artichoke plants to Louisiana where the Creole artichoke was grown. While there are up to 50 types of artichokes worldwide, virtually all cultivated in the U.S. 90% are of the Green Globe variety.
Artichokes became a cultivated crop in the middle of the 15th century in Naples, Italy. Others attributed the cultivation to Greece, while others insist that both used wild “cardoon” or “cardone”, the artichoke’s thistle-family cousin, and that the artichoke was developed from the cardoon in North Africa, Egypt, or Syria, based on a reference from the ninth century. Always a delicacy, the plant was popularized by Catherine D'Medici, who was married at fourteen (14), to Henry II in France. Catherine earned herself much disdain with a notorious artichoke appetite, in an era when artichokes were a famed aphrodisiac. Whoever was responsible, we are thankful for artichoke preparation ranging from Arabic couscous-stuffed artichokes to Spanish baby artichoke tapas, to Italian carciofi alla romana, to Syrian artichoke hearts with olive oil. The tender bases of the petals, and the fleshy heart to which the petals are connected, are the edible portions.
The world’s main growers are Chile, China, Ecuador, Egypt, Greece, Italy, Morocco, Peru, Spain, and the U.S. Napoleon buys our artichokes from Asia, Europe, and South America. Italy produces more artichokes than any other nation, followed by Spain.
Jerusalem artichokes are actually a tuber, the root of a variety of the sunflower plant.They are sometimes marketed under the name “Sun-chokes”. Jerusalem are not artichokes at all, and have nothing to do with Jerusalem. Jerusalem artichokes are actually a tuber, the root of a variety of the sunflower plant.
California has less than 10,000 acres in artichokes, but 75% of U.S. artichokes come from Castroville, California (dubbed the artichoke center of the world), where artichokes hold the title of "the official vegetable of Monterey County." Castroville is a coastal hamlet between Monterey and San Jose. At the Castroville Artichoke Festival, deep fried artichokes are the big money earner, and in many local restaurants, grilled artichokes are the favorite.
California artichokes are available in most markets all year, but peak season is March through May, though with a couple of tricks, the harvest is January - June, with a small harvest in the fall. Early spring/winter artichokes are grown in Southern California’s Coacholla Valley, where it is dry. Spring artichokes are compact/firm/heavy for their size. Summer artichokes tend to have longer thorns, and their leaves are more open in appearance. Winter artichokes are more conical in shape.
Some fall/winter artichokes may be “winter-kissed”, and have a brown tint to the outer leaves. Some fans prefer these artichokes for their nutty, rich flavor. The winter artichokes do revert to their grey-green color when cooked. The thistle-like crop, first planted in the 1920’s by Italian immigrants, hates the sun, but thrives in the cool, moist, foggy morning breezes. In 1947, Marilyn Monroe was crowned the first Queen of the Artichokes!
South America
The artichoke we import is a non-native crop to South America. It was introduced a few hundred years ago by the Spanish, but never became a staple food. It remained confined to the highlands, and seldom found its way to the cities. A few years ago, at the request of Spanish buyers, a few growers started experimenting with seeds from both Spain, and the US. They planted artichokes in the fertile coast at the foot of their mountains, and were startled by the yields they obtained. The growth of the artichoke canning industry in South America is testimony to the richness of this land, its unique climate, and the resourcefulness of its business people.
The artichoke season extends for six (6) months in South America, ten (10) weeks in Spain. The yields per hectare (up to 25 metric tons in the north), are 25 to 30% better than the fields in Spain. Some say the quality is recognized to be superior (the artichokes are generally smaller), and the best canners have developed processing techniques that minimize the use of citric acid, therefore preserving the natural taste of the artichoke.
The leader in the Peruvian artichoke canning industry is Sociedad Agricola Viru (SAV), which represented around 70% of the total volume of artichokes the country exported in 2003. Production started in 2001. In 2003, SAV planted 430 hectares (around 1000 acres) and doubled this number in 2004. The main markets are Spain and the United States.
Spain
Artichokes that we import from Spain are produced for the fresh market from October-June. The main areas of production are Ancona, Castellone, Tarragona, and Valencia, and to a lesser degree in Murcia, Toledo, and Tudela. The most widely-cultivated varieties are Blanca de Tudela, French Verde de Provence, Monouelina and Wolete. Artichokes are normally consumed in Europe in the cold weather months. When the weather is unusually warm, as happened in recent years in October-November, there is an early flowering of the artichoke plants. While this is unfortunate for the farmers, since they cannot sell this early crop in the fresh market in Europe, it is good for us in the brine pack - as they are competitive in price. The majority of packers, however, wait until February-March to begin production, since this is the main flowering of the artichoke plant (usually there are 3 pickings per season). When there are huge quantities of raw materials, it can cause a second weakening in the fresh market, since the fresh market cannot absorb all the production of Murcia. The flowering lasts through May…later will cause the vegetable to toughen. The traditional time to book artichokes in Spain has been in March-May at the latest.
The key to obtaining a quality end product is in the purchase of raw material. Artichokes are generally sold at auction, and there is a wide range of qualities available to the packers. The norm is to have a poor yield (20-22%) from the poorer quality raw material, and a better yield (30-31%) from the better quality raw material. The finished product produced from the better raw artichokes will tend to have a higher quality, and freedom from defects.
Today just about every town in France/Italy claims its own artichokes, which fosters the assumption that there are hundred of varieties. In reality, somewhere between 8-11 varieties exist, with many regional European hybrids. In the United States, only the Green Globe artichoke is readily available.
Selection & Uses
During spring and winter, artichokes are generally compact, firm and heavy for their size. In the summer and fall, artichokes tend to be conical in shape. Choose spring and summer artichokes with an even green color. Fall and winter artichokes may be touched by frost --”winter-kissed”-- with a whitish, blistered appearance.Color ranges from light bronze to brown on the outer leaves. While browned artichokes may look “funny”, many consider them to be the tastiest. They turn green when cooked.
To gauge an artichoke’s freshness, look for a stem that’s intact and green rather than brown or missing, as the stem is the first part of the vegetable to rot. A good artichoke looks like a closed bud. As the petals open, the flesh grows tougher. You can store a nice tight artichoke in the crisper drawer of your refrigerator for up to a week before cooking it. Sappy artichoke juice can stay on your hands for days, so wear rubber kitchen gloves for cleaning and prep work. The easiest way to cook artichokes is to place them in a large pot of boiling water with a little white wine, lemon juice, salt, and fresh herbs. Keep the pot at a simmer until the artichokes are tender, approximately 20 to 45 minutes, depending on size.
If you like the classic lemon-juice-and mayo sauce, spice it up by adding a dash of Tabasco. If you’re in the mood to try something new, buy a jar of kalamata olives, and chop up a small handful to mix into a vinaigrette with some olive oil, black pepper, fresh chopped herbs (like parsley or mint), lemon juice, and some of the brine from the olive jar.
Size has little to do with flavor or quality. Artichokes are available in a variety of sizes from “baby” to “jumbo”. All are mature when picked. Small or baby artichokes weigh 2 to 3 ounces each and are ideal for appetizers, casseroles or sautés. When properly trimmed, every part is edible.Medium artichokes weigh 8 to 10 ounces each, serve them with a low-fat dip, or stuff with hot or cold meats as a light entree or salad. When trimmed, they can be sliced and sautéed or used in a stir-fry. Large artichokes weigh 15 to 20 ounces each. This size is often served whole with a dip such as aioli, remoulades, or served with olive oil. Whole artichokes can be baked or stuffed. Increasingly, warm/cold pasta salads feature artichoke hearts. Artichokes can be served, diced, quartered, julienned, pureed, quartered, and/or sautéed. Artichokes are fun to share as an appetizer for two or more people.
Nutrition
The artichoke is healthful,nutritious,and versatile. The artichoke has emerged as an even better source of disease-fighting antioxidants than chocolate, blueberries, or red wine, according to a Norwegian study of 1,100 foods. Accoring to the American Journal of Clinical Nutrition, the Top 5 antioxidant foods are;
- Blackberries
- Walnuts
- Strawberries
- Artichokes
- Cranberries
Artichokes are rich in vitamin C, and are a good source of folic acid, and magnesium. Artichoke leaves are rich in caffeylquinic acids which break down fat, improve digestive flow, and deliver powerful nutrients (act as a tonic) for the liver. Artichokes are very low in salt, high in fiber, and contain no cholesterol/fat.The vegetable is low in calories (25 calories for a 12 ounce choke), and for the low carb dieter, they have six grams of carbohydrates, and three of them are dietary fiber. Artichokes are also rich in flavinoids, which protect against cell damage, and have a high chance of phosphorus and potassium.
An artichokes has four main parts. The stem should be trimmed and peeled; rub the cut parts with lemon to prevent discoloration. The leaves should have their pointy ends snipped; when cooked, the meat at the base of the leaf can be eaten by scraping the flesh between your teeth. The heart, the tender yellow-green prize at the center of the bulb, is hidden under the fuzzy interior choke, which should be discarded. The bottom can be used as an appetizer/base.
Preparation
Artichokes can be boiled, braised, fried, microwaved, roasted and/or steamed. Although fresh artichokes are consumed largely for the fleshy base of the prickly leaves of the bud, processed artichokes are primarily "hearts," or the bases of those buds after leaves, and the embryonic lavender blossom portions are removed. James Beard thought artichoke bottoms the most desirable part of the artichoke - “delicious, round, meaty” and suggested them as a serving base “for such delights as foie gras, or breast of quail.” Saucer-shaped, the tasty bottom is found within the artichoke, underneath the heart. Their convenient cup shape is perfect as an appetizer, entree, filling, or side dish.
Artichokes need be fresh, sound, clean, and in good condition to be packed in brine/marinated. They must be free from rot and mold, and have reached a suitable degree of ripeness. Artichokes are graded for their character (firm/properly shaped/trimmed), color (yellow to light green), uniformity in size, and little tolerance for defects. Napoleon's packers warrant that each product supplied is free from any/all adulterations, and meets/complies with applicable standards, rules and regulations for safety, as established by the FDA, the USDA, and all local/state/federal government food and health authorities.
Commercial products are quartered or whole hearts, packed both in glass and tin. Packing media are oil and vinegar requiring a finished pH of 4.5 or less ("marinated"), or packed in water ("brine"). Artichokes packed in water have less fat, fewer calories, and adapt more easily to your favorite recipes vs. artichoke hearts packed in oil. Typically, if your recipe calls for hearts/bottoms, product in cans/jars are best, as no trimming is necessary, no cutting out the thistle, less time and labor, no discoloring, and no seasonal considerations. Product is stored easily, more flavorful and tender than frozen. Quality is known - as are counts/sizes.
Promotions are year-around for this product. The artichoke’s nut-like flavor and velvety texture, when cooked, make it a popular hors d'oeuvre, appetizer, or salad garnish. It may be served hot or cold, and is a staple ingredient in many dishes. Artichokes are easy to prepare, fun to eat, and delicious too.
Healthy dips for artichokes include low-fat yogurt blended with Dijon mustard, light mayonnaise blended with lemon juice, or simply with our Napoleon Balsamic Vinegar and Olive Oil.
It is both polite/proper to pluck the leaves with your fingers, leaving knife/fork aside. Pull off an outer leaf, hold it by the pointed end, put the other end in your mouth, pull it between your teeth, scrape the length of the leaf (for the soft, edible pulp)…the result is a mouthful of a savory artichoke – perfectly proper, downright delicious. Discard the remaining leaf. Continue until you reach the purple-tipped cone of leaves. Lift off, and scrape away the fuzzy center at the base, and discard. The bottom or the heart of the artichoke is entirely edible. Cut into small pieces, and enjoy!