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Olive Oil

Lore • The Olive Tree • The Olive • Harvest • Press • Olive Oil

Sales • Classification • Geography • Special • Storage • Taste

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Preferences/Sales/Types

organic EV olive oilCustomers tend to prefer oil from their own country of origin.  We import olive oil from Greece, Italy, Spain and Turkey.  We broker French.

Subsequent to 1953, olive oil imports had were small/steady, always somewhere between 50-60 million pounds.

Olive oil represents no more than 3.1% of production, and 3.2%of exports of the group of  9 vegetable fats/oils during 1996/7 – 1999-2000, but was responsible for 34% of dollar sales ($400 million +).  Olive oil outsells corn, peanut, safflower, and sunflower oils. Vegetable oil’s volume sales are roughly 60million gallons, 30% showing a repeated decline.  Canola oil is in second place, with 30 million gallons, an 11% increase over 1997.  In 2002, olive oil triggered a 6.5%increase in retail dollar sales, based on data from Nielson. In 2002, olive oil was the only pourable category to show an increase in retail dollar sales amidst a declining market for other pourable oil.  Supermarket buyers continue to realize that the sale of olive oil presents a “win-win” situation, since they enjoy higher profit as their customers enjoy olive oil’s taste and health attributes.

In 2004, for the 52 weeks ending 1/23/05, sales were +4.3% to 86.9% in unit, and 16.1% to $491.6 million in dollar sale. Olive oil accounted for 32% of the nearly $1.2 billion Americans spent on cooking oils, but only accounted for 10% of the volume.  Still, olive oil comprises only 3% of the total vegetable oil consumption throughout the world.  Despite its small significance in world vegetable fat/oil consumption, olive oil is of great economic and social importance in some regions where it is the chief source of income for the rural population, and is one of the leading agricultural export earners.

Key Factors

The most popular size of olive oil, especially in supermarkets, is the three-liter can, which normally accounts for about 35% of olive oil sales.  With increased prices many consumers switched to smaller one-liter bottles.

Flavored oils, a niche category within olive oil, have not affected olive oil sales.  They are growing, and different types of cooking need different types of oils.  Infused oils open up possibilities for the cook to do something out of season. Convenience is an extra benefit.
Retail sales by type of olive oil in 2002 were: Extra Virgin – 44%, Pure – 39%, Extra Light – 17%.

“Supermarket News” says olive oil is purchased 21% on promotion and 9% with coupon.

Consumers who are current, and likely, purchasers of olive oil:

The key messages to consumers are health and versatility:

Despite the recent increases in olive oil prices, there has been an increase in household penetration by 1.5%.  Consumers are not staying away from olive oil, but buying smaller quantities more often.

Olive oil is analogous to wine in many ways and often the same terminology is used to describe the organoleptic properties of olive oil as herbaceous, citrusy, grassy. These comparisons are appropriate since, like wine, olive oil can vary greatly depending on the varieties used, the terrain, the methods of production, and hand of the producer. However, time is the enemy of olive oil and ideally, it should be consumed within a year of harvest.  The other main difference is price – while a bottle of olive oil can cost the same, the wine lasts for one meal, two at most. The oil, thankfully, will last for many meals and consequently, is very affordable.

87% of households purchase oils/shortenings. Each spent $15 annually, made purchases 5x per year, spent $3 on the sku, purchased it singly, and bought it every 50+ days.  83% of these households purchased oil/shortening more than 1x per year, thought it was special 27% of the time, and 5% buy it with a manufacturer coupon. 95% of households bought oil/shortening in a supermarket, vs alternative channels.  How did olive oil purchase history compare? 31% of households purchase olive oil, spend $10.25 annually and buy it 2x per year. They spend an average of $5.35, buy one at a time, and buy every 85 days. 44% of these households are repeat buyers, and 33% purchased on deal (perceived), while 5% used a coupon. 85% of these households buy olive oil in supermarkets – the lowest percentage of any oil.

Olive oil flavors can be mild (delicate, light, smooth, buttery), or strong (full blown, olive flavor). Texture can vary from light too viscous, the color from green to gold. Taste can be like an almond, or bland, fatty, fluid, fruity, peppery, rustic, and/or sweet. A peppery taste in olive oil causes a raspy, burning sensation in the back of the throat, which causes a pleasant discomfort...an aftertaste is the flavor of the oil. Since the law does not tell you how the oil was extracted, nor the acidity (which can hide a multitude of sins), aroma, color, flavor and grade are diverse, and can vary from year to year, and from region to region. Olive oil, like wine, can have its vintages -- the only sure way to determine preference is by sampling...like wine tasting, a slow and cumulative learning process.

Old timers rub their hands with olive oil, smell for aroma (olfactory is the most sensitive), sip it into their mouths, spit it out, then pause for the aftertaste. The gustative sense can perceive bitter, sweet, acid, or salt.

62% of olive oils are used in general cooking, as a medium for frying or sautéing. The remainder of olive oil usage can be broken down as follows: 58% use it in salads or over vegetables, 27% use it as a substitute for butter or margarine, and 22% use it in baked goods.

Olive oil, then, has nuances...like wine; olive oil is a living product, made from the fruit of the earth. Among edible oils (almond, coconut, peanut, safflower, and soy, to name a few) only olive oil is produced from a fruit, rather than from seeds, nuts or grains. Olive oil is natural oil, essentially a fruit juice, and enjoys a longer shelf life than other oils. Like wine, olive oil has its vintages -- some better than others.

Olive oil is 4-5 times more resistant to heat than seed oils...seed oils deteriorate after the first fry use. Olive oil can be used 4-5x before the demolition of nutritional compounds.  Olive oil “grows” in volume as it heats -- which makes it highly efficient, and able to survive repeated use. Olive oil gives the food a crisp and caramelized crust that prevents greasiness from searing into it. Seed oils have one quality -- price...olive oils, many. Olive oils are distinguished by taste, and process...by flavor, color, aroma and oleic acid content.
Olive oil should be kept in a cool, dark place in your house - a cool pantry is ideal, or a cupboard/wine cellar. Bottles of olive oil should not be refrigerated, as condensation can occur. Olive oil should be used within a year or two, at the most.

Fueled by the American love affair with the robust flavors of Mediterranean cooking, the growing interest in health/fashion of fine olive oil has led to an explosion of sales. Choosing the right oil, for the right job, has become as tricky as finding the perfect marriage of food and wine.

With interest, however, has come confusion, misinformation, and indecisiveness about olive oil...part of what has fueled the controversy is how it is graded, which has always varied from country to country. While the 1982 regulations passed by the FDA are better worded than the European laws, there are not proper standards here in the United States...an American oil labeled “extra virgin” need be no different from an olive oil labeled “pure." Let us talk to this point briefly.

While the production, customization (type of olives /extraction used), and sale of Mediterranean olive oil is controlled by national standards, laid out by the International Olive Oil Council (IOOC), and adopted by the European Economic Community (EEC), all products must pass government inspection before export (98% of the world’s olive oil producing regions adhere to the IOOC agreement under the administration of the EEC).
The EEC also fixes some methods of testing, and utilizable characteristics for the commercial categories of olive oil.  The European Commission has asked EU ministers to approve the extension for an additional three years of aid payments to inspection agencies charged with overseeing the payments of olive oil producers. 

The continuation of the existing handouts is expected to cost the EU 43.5m (Euros) from 2002 until 2005, when it is anticipated that a new system will be introduced. These inspection agencies are charged with “overseeing compliance with regulatory obligations in the Member States producing olive oil.” Without agreement from ministers, they would run out of funding; the olive oil sector has been at the center of a series of allegations regarding fraud in EU subsidy applications. Let us look at the International Olive Oil agreement of 1963, which talks to “acidity” and “grades."

Acidity is perceived by consumers as the “sharpness” at the back of the mouth. The percentage of acidity is a measure of the maturity of the olives at the moment of the harvest. Viscosity refers to the body of the oil, or to use wine-tasting terminology, the “legs” of the oil. 

Effective November 1, 2003, new regulations define 6 types:

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Classification of Olive Oil

Olives are always pressed without heat, and olive oil is pressed only once -- but can receive extra processing to neutralize the acid, or to eliminate a bad odor.  Olive oil accounts for 3.2% of world production of edible vegetable oil and 3.3% of world consumption.
Extra virgin can be defined as a “first press," physically extracted (cold press -- special mechanical and thermal conditions that do not lead to deterioration), with an acidity level of less than 0.08%, and considered to have an intense fruit flavor and distinct aroma and taste.  The smoke point for extra virgin is the lowest of all olive oil varieties, 406° F, which makes it the least desirable for frying.

Virgin can be defined as the “first press," mechanically extracted, pure “juice” neither mixed nor refined, with an acid content below 3%.  It has a mild aroma/taste, and a fruity flavor.
Olive oil is a blend of extra virgin, virgin and refined olive oil with acidity above 1% but less than 3%.  Mixed oils are classified by type.  One type of pure olive oil is “Riviera," which is a blend of extra virgin (10 - 25%), and refined “A” olive oil (75 - 90%).  “Riviera” is a term derived from ancient times, as processed from the “Riviera."  It is full-bodied with a mild flavor and used primarily in pasta sauces and salad dressings.

Extra Light now shows the strongest growth at retail.  Extra Light is typically a blend of 5% extra virgin/95% refined “A."  Light appeals to American consumers, who wish to use more monounsaturated fat, but means a lighter color, and aroma with a mild flavor -- not calorie count.  It is used for baking and excellent for sautéing stir-fry.

Olive pomace oil is a blend of refined olive pomace oil and virgin olive oil.  Pomace is the crushed olive material that remains after pressing.  Oil is extracted with the use of solvents, then refined.  After refining, the oil is blended with virgin olive oil to produce olive pomace oil.

Olive oil sprays are a blend of olive oil that contains neither alcohol nor preservatives.  In Italy you find regional pressings, in California; they have pioneered the introduction of varietals.  In California, consistency is fine tuned with varietals.

In 1983-4, sales of olive oil were 53% packaged/47% bulk.  Today, 45% of olive oil is sold at retail, and 50% used in restaurants, and 5% for commercial applications.

Foodservice operators typically stock extra virgin, pure, and pomace olive oils.  Extra virgin is the “creme de la creme”-- and where distributors/retailers should make the best margin.  Pure has been the tonnage item and the primary ingredient for most Caesar salads.  Pomace is a price item, commonly “footballed” and can be today’s volume leader.

Olive oil is refined when inedible, though it is the least refined of oils commonly consumed.  The refining process involves neutralization of acids (alkalis and heat); bleaching of undesirable color (clay, carbon, and heat); deodorizing (steam -- destroy remaining free fatty acids and antioxidants); and winterization (cooling and filtering).

The intense heat necessary for refining produces a bland, colorless oil that is then mixed with varying amounts (1 - 25%) of extra virgin olive oil or virgin oil to reintroduce organoleptic qualities.  The percentage of the mix is not set by law, and does not have to be stated on the label.  Typically, fats used in bakery items fall into three categories; butter/animal fat, Vegetable Shortening and Oils.

Most products depend on oil for flavor, form, and texture.

Hexane, a petroleum derivative, is the most popular choice for solvent treatment, though triclorethylene and carbon sulfide have been used.  Solvents facilitate maximum extraction of residue oil, leaving a by-product of only 1 percent leftover fat that is used as fuel, or, if the pits are removed, for granular livestock feed.

Pomace oils are extracted from olive paste, using solvents.  After pressing/centrifuge operations have removed the oil and water from the olive, pomace is what remains, which is then blended with extra virgin olive oil to produce a product used by many restaurants.  Pomace is typically 5% extra virgin and 95% refined “B” olive oil.

People ask if olive oil is hydrogenated -- the answer is “no."  Hydrogenation is adding hydrogen molecules to a liquid fat, like corn/safflower oil, to make it a little more solid, like margarine.  Hydrogenation can prevent rancidity in some cooking oils, like cottonseed oil.  Hydrogenated fats like margarine/all vegetable shortening makes our snack food crisper.
Winterized oils have been chilled/filtered to reduce cloudiness.  It is an additional refining stage. 

When olive oil is subjected to low temperatures, it should congeal, especially Extra Virgin olive oil, which is naturally higher in vegetable waxes.  It starts as a slight cloudiness, which can increase to the point of near opacity.  Additionally, Extra Virgin oil forms small white vegetable-wax pellets which settle near the bottom of the bottle.  These white pellets are a sure sign of natural, high-quality olive oil when cold.  Unfortunately, many uneducated consumers shy away from this appearance.  For this reason, many olive oil producers subject their oil to a process known as “winterization,” which removes the beneficial vegetable waxes, in order to lower the point at which the oil congeals.  Winterization also removes much of the oil’s quality, flavor and texture.  Although high-quality olive oils will congeal at low temperatures, they will return to their original condition when brought back to room temperature, with no loss of quality.

The FDA recommends you limit all kinds of fat to 6 teaspoons a day for women, 9 for men.  The FDA encourages consumers to use natural liquid oils like olive which contains no trans fatty acids, and cook in oils high in healthy monounsaturated fatty acid.

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Geography

Napoleon Olive Oil has been imported through four generations of our Magnano family.  The family imports Greek, Italian, Spanish, Tunisian, and Turkish olive oil...extra light, extra virgin, pomace and pure.  We broker French, Mexican, and South American olive oil.
One of the great revelations when you start discovering the world of the olive is that each country produces olive oils of vastly differing flavors, and within each country, every region produces an olive oil different from the oil produced only miles away -- even when the same variety of olive is being grown...this is because the soils and the micro climates are different, and, as with grapes, these factors effect the taste of the fruit.
Olive oil represents 3% of the vegetable oils produced throughout the world, and the European Union produced over 75% of the total.  Spain and Italy are the largest producers in Europe, historically taking turns in the lead, in line with the alternative bearing pattern of the olive, both reaching 35 - 40% of European production.

Extra virgin olive oil can be found in:

Australia/ New Zealand
We have mentioned that where there is good wine, there is good olive oil – and these two countries are no exception.  They label their oils according to estate, region, variety, and year of pressing.  The aim is to make premium quality oils to complement their vibrant local cuisine.

Australia, with its sunny climate, horticultural infrastructure, and innovative technology, appears to have the expertise and will to supply an enviable olive oil industry.  It tests soils for nutrient status, plans olive groves for mechanical watering and harvesting efficiency, and nurses its “clean green” image much the same as New Zealand.

Australia’s first olive trees were brought in December of 1800 by George Suttor, a protégé of Sir Joseph Banks, the great botanist from Cook’s expedition.  However, it was not until after the Second World War, with the influx of European immigrants, that the olive tree was properly treated, and understood.  Many were feral/wild olives, often along the roads that grew from bird-spread stones from colonial times.  The oil was delicious, and piquant.

Now, however, olive trees grow in a great southern band across the country, mostly in wine growing areas from the West to the Southeast.  In New Zealand, the most prolific areas also match the great wine areas – and new groves established.  A properly cultivated, conventionally irrigated olive tree will produce an average of 220 pounds of olives. 

In the 1950’s, people bought olive oil in tiny bottles in the drugstores, as a cosmetic, or medicine – it was years later, before it was rated as food.  The Mediterranean food boom has turned olive oil into a condiment now found both in grocery stores, and in most kitchen pantries.

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Argentina
Malbec isn’t the only tasty thing being bottled in Argentina. The country’s olive oil has recently come into its own, with boutique versions widely available. Now no restaurant table in Buenos Aires is complete without a bottle of a bright and fruity local aceite de oliva. Olive trees first arrived in Argentina nearly 500 years ago, but the oil was exported until the Spanish Civil War disrupted trade in the 1930’s.

Afterward, Argentina oil was thought to be iffy stuff. But since the 1990’s, quality has skyrocketed, following the same trajectory as the local wines. Many of the oils are organic or biodynamic, with the best coming from small producers in the winemaking regions of Mendoza, San Juan, and Catamrca. Connoisseurs differentiate oils by region and by variety. There’s fiery farga, peppery frantoio and good, all-purpose arauco. These delicious olive oils can be purchased outside the wine regions, too. In Buenos Aires, most wine shops carry a small selection. Or pick some up at Valenti (www.valenti.com.ar), which is the city’s equivalent of Dean & Deluca.

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California
Olives came to California in 1769 with the Franciscan fathers.  The Padres used the oil for sacramental purposes, then for bartering.  They used Mexican stock, and these trees are still often used for grafting.  These trees produced seed that gave us the Mission variety.   By the end of the 19th century, farmers took over where the missions left off, and there was a boom in olive plantings.  More than 95% of the olives harvested in California go to canneries, which suffer now, due to cheaper imports from Mexico/Morocco/Spain.  Olives grow primarily in the Sacramento and San Joaquin Valleys.  Fleshy olives favored for eating, like dense/tangy Frantoio, Manzanilla and Sevillano, have lower oil content than the light/nutty, small Mission olive.

You can make about 5 times more with grapes than olives.  Olive trees take about 7 years to mature.  As my Grandfather said:  “you plant grapes for your children, and olives for your grandchildren.” However, on just five acres, you can generate 15-20 tons of olives from trees that require little care.  The fruit sells for $4-600/ton.  Each ton yields 40 gallons of oil.
California produces only a paltry 33,000 acres of olives (production was 400,000 gallong in 1995) -- 98% used for table olives.  California accounts for 99% of the U.S. olive oil, but produces less than 1% of the world’s olive oil.  In 1988, California had 2 olive oil mills – now 20. The COOC has instituted an extra virgin certification program.  Since most are produced on a small scale, they are more expensive than imported.  All are cold pressed, extra virgin, primarily from the Mission olive (some Manzanilla/Sevillano olives from the Fall harvest).

The United States is the world’s largest importer of olive oil, but produces less than 1% of the world’s supply.  California olives in order of crop sizes are: 
#1 Manzanillo      #2 Sevillano      #3 Mission      #4 Ascolano 

Frantoso, Leccino, Morasolo, and Taggiasca are being introduced from Italy.  America, Argentina and Australia represent the new world approach to olive oil.  Californian oils are smooth and clean tasting.

California olive oil companies fall into roughly four groups:

The California Olive Oil Council’s Tasting Panel, of Berkeley, CA, has received official recognition for its olive oil from the International Olive Oil Council, an intergovernmental organization focused on integrity in the olive oil industry.  The California team, whose volunteer members include chefs and farmers as well as food and wine aficionados, has trained for this goal for more than four years. 

The COOC Seal of Quality was created to boost consumer confidence in California olive oil, and for the first time in the United States, this seal establishes a labeling guarantee for extra virgin olive oil.  The COOC will certify those producers participating in the voluntary program to meet international requirements for extra virgin.  This year, the number of oils carrying the council’s seal is expected to climb to 50, and olvei oil is produced in all but 10 countries.  The California Olive Oil Council was founded in 1992 and now has 360 members.  Contact the California Olive Oil Council for more information at (707) 939-6909.

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France
Oil from the French Riviera and Province is delicate.  It is sweet, fruity in flavor, and light golden color.  French olive oil has a light taste, as its growing regions are less sunny than those nations further south. In international olive oil terms, France is a small player, with only 2,250 tons per year – but its influence is big, as France has been a magnet for the “great/good”, and a draw card for many who are fascinated by its food culture, and its olive culture in particular.  The French have always prized fine food/wine, and the culture of the table. Though butter has always had its epicurean role in the North, olive oil, along with lard, duck, and goose fat have also had their valued roles in Province, and the Southwest.

As in other Mediterranean regions, there is a dichotomy between the old/new.  Most French producers prefer the modern/continuous system of linked centrifuges to grind the pulp, and spin out the oil.  This is fast, and easy to run.  However, growers of the old school prefer the traditional way – squeezing olive mash in a vertical tower press between fiber mats known as “scourtins”.  The merits of each extraction can be debated endlessly.  However, what matters is that by both means, France produces some of the world’s most enjoyable oils.

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Greece
Imagine the Mediterranean without the olive tree...what a different prospect it would offer.  Surely of all the countries, Greece is the most difficult to picture...every island and every region is mountainous.  What would be barren and inhospitable is softened and shaded by the moving gray-green mist of 140 million olive trees, some more than 4000 years old.  Olive trees take the edges off the angles, and provide the backdrop to each tiny harbor, and each whitewashed village...imagine sipping your glass of ouzo in the village square, without the relaxing shade of an olive tree. 

The beauty of Greece is in its 3000+ islands, its clear sea, its blue cloudless skies, and above all -- the sound of a breeze rustling the leaves of countless olive trees.  Since the ancient times when Athene’s gift to mankind was the olive tree, the olive has flourished in a country where little else can grow...all over the rocky terrain of Greece, the olive tree has survived, boring its roots deep into the earth, providing not only its fruit, but a livelihood for millions.

The olive has been the foundation of the country’s economy -- it was traded for corn/minerals, used for light/medicine, and as payment for taxes.  Wealth was counted by the number of trees' one owned. Today, olives are prized for their culinary applications.  The olive symbolizes hope and fertility, and seems to embody the spirit of a people who have known hardship -- yet who remain proud, generous, and friendly.

Greece, then, is the land of the olive...the gift of the goddess Athene, hailed by Homer, a symbol of peace, and a healthy component of Greek nutrition -- and export.  The goddess Athene gave two gifts to the Greeks.  She granted them wisdom, and because wisdom alone could not sustain life, she created the olive tree.

The country’s ecological environment is ideal for its cultivation, especially on the coasts and islands.  The perfect environment is a warm/dry climate, without winter frost, or spring winds and humidity, with only small differences of temperature between summer and winter. Archaeological studies prove that Greece has been producing high quality olive oil for more than 4,000 years. Oil jars and storehouses found at Knosos indicate that the Cretans used olive oil in the year 2500 BC, very much as they do today. Archaeologists take special pains to protect the olive tree of Plato, which is 2400 years old!  Hippocrates, the father of medicine, first mentioned the health and therapeutic benefits of olive oil.

Greece devotes 60% of its cultivated land to olive growing, is the world’s #1 producer of black olives, and boasts more varieties of olives than any other country.  Greece holds third place in world olive production with more than 137 million trees, which produce approximately 400,000 tons of olive oil annually, of which 75% is extra virgin (which makes them the #1 producer of extra virgin olive oil) as compared with Italy (40-50%) or Spain (25-30%).  Production is concentrated in Crete/Peloponnese (65%), the Aegean islands, the mainland Greece, and then the Ionian Islands.

Greece produces 400,000 tons of olive oil, 70-75% extra virgin, with annual exports between 100-120,000 tons - the majority to Italy.  The EU absorbs 45% of Greece’s olive oil exports, 1/3 of which is exported to Italy in bulk.  42% of all imported olive oil in Italy comes from Greece, 52% of which was extra virgin.  The largest markets for virgin olive oil outside Italy and Spain are Canada, Cyprus, France, Great Britain and the United States.  It is mainly sold in large containers (tins of 3 - 5 liters), and in the western countries, the main outlets are Greek ethnic stores. Very little promotion is done, and if so, exclusively through ethnic media.

Domestic consumption of Greek olive oil ranges between 170-180,000 tons, yet Greece produces enough olive oil to meet the entire consumption of the U.S.  Greeks consume/enjoy the highest per capita consumption of olive oil in the world (almost 20 liters per capita annually) or twice the consumption per capita in Spain  (9 liters) and Italy (11 liters).  U.S. consumption is less than 1 liter per capita annually.  Olive oil continues to increase in sales in Greece, due to rising incomes, improved marketing, and healthier eating habits.  Olive oil, to Greeks, as us, is a source of life, health, and balance. 

The olive oil produced in Greece is composed of the following quality categories:

There are 2,800 olive oil pressing facilities throughout Greece, a country roughly the size of New York (state).  Greece has 11 million people, did $500 million in exports to the U.S., with food accounting for 30%.  The U.S. is #4 on Greece’s export list - behind Italy, Germany, and France.

While typically our Spanish olive oil is gold, and our Italian green, our Greek is a combination of both -- it comes from the North (as Spain), is picked early, and is lighter in taste than most extra virgin olive oil from Greece.  High in antioxidants, Greek olive oil can reach 410º F before it begins to smoke -- unlike other oils, yet retain all of its flavor, bouquet, and nutrients in cooking.   Greek oils are robust.

The Greek association of industries and processors of olive oil is called Sevitel.

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Italy
From the sixth century B.C., olives changed the cultural, culinary, and economic landscape of Italy for many hundreds of years.  The Etruscans, the pre-Roman inhabitants of Tuscany, used olive branches and leaves to decorate their burial chambers.  Early Christians used them in their catacombs and branches are still used on Palm Sunday.  In Imperial Rome, subjects paid their taxes in olive oil.

Italy produces/consumes about a third of the world’s olive oil, or almost 700,000 tons of it.  It produced 950,000 tons, and exported 350,000 tons in 2005.  Italy has 73% of the U.S. market, Spain 14%, Turkey 8%, and Greece 5%.  Spain can produce more, but uses about half as much olive oil as Italy does.  Italy is synonymous in most people’s minds with olive oil -- the countryside is dotted with olive trees.  The ancient Romans were the most influential in spreading the cultivation of the olive tree throughout the rest of Europe and North Africa.  The Romans perfected the curing techniques for olives, and discovered the screw press.  The Romans produced one of the first cookbooks, compiled by Apicius (a noble and great gourmet, living in the first century A.D.) 

The species of olive tree grown in Italy is the “Olea Satina”, which includes over 60 varieties in the 15 major oil-producing areas of Italy alone. Olive varieties grown are Biancolilla, Cerasuola, Nocellara, Ogliarola, and Tonda Iblea.

Italian olive oils are categorized according to the following D.O.P.s (denominations of protected origin):  Aprutino Pescarese, Brisighella, Bruzzio, Colline di Brindisi, Colline di Salernitane, Penisola Sorrentina, Riviera Ligure, and Sabina.  Olive oil from the Chianti region has the prestigious denomination of controlled origin (D.O.C.) as well as D.O.P.  Among the many different olive varieties used in Italy are Frantoio, Leccino Pendolino, and Moraiolo.  There are more than 1,500 biotypes in Italy.

Ligurian oil (Italian Riviera) is prized throughout the world – it spans 170 miles from the Port of St. Louis on the French frontier to the river Magra (From San Remo to La Spezia).  Liguria borders Tuscany.  Our Liguarian oil is lightly foggy, pale, yellow, delicate in smell, and sweet, with a slightly fruity taste.  In Liguria, the taggiasca olives yields a lighter and far more delicate oil that is perfect for seafood, Whether it is a whole sea bass braised in olive oil and white wine, or burrida, the Ligurian fish and seafood stew with tomato and herbs.  It’s also a fine ingredient in homemade mayonnaise, where a lighter olive oil taste is needed, and for pesto, Liguria’s revered pasta sauce.  Liguria has an abundance of wild salad greens, aromatic herbs -- and olive trees, especially on the Riviera Di Ponente.

Tuscany olive oil is clear, and a deep, almost emerald green, color. It has an intense olive smell, a peppery flavor and is fruity, with a taste reminiscent of fresh greens, artichokes and tomatoes.  People crave that peppery, herbaceous taste.  Part of that Tuscan pepperiness – referred to as “grip” by some olive oil aficionados because of the way it grabs the back of the throat – comes from moraiolo olives (frantoio and leccino are also widely used).  These olives are picked when barely ripe, particularly in the hills of Chianti, to avoid harvest-killing frosts.  So what you get in classic Tuscan oils is a young, greenish quality that may seem harsh to some palates.  Oddly enough, the Tuscan oils also have more fruitiness than do those made from riper olives. With olive oil, as with wine, Tuscany offers more than just Chianti.  The producers of Montalcino, the south, make softer, more elegant oils, and in Lucca, in the northwest, oils tend to be rounder and sweeter. 

Tuscany stretches from LaSpezia to Rome -- and is the birthplace of Chianti Classico.  Some epicures claim that the most celebrated oils come from Lucca, but today there are excellent olive oils from every province in the region, pressed from the Frontoio, Leccino, and Moraiolo olives.  We find that the sea of the Italian Riviera modifies the cold winter’s effects.  Too, Riviera cuisine is based on olive oil, meat, and seafood.  Unquestionably, it is the olive oil that characterizes Tuscan food because the dishes are simple -- this is the center for Italian cattle farming, is noted for its seafood, and the fish/meat from here is roasted, grilled or fried -- without elaborate sauces. An estate oil from Chianti will dress a bowl of beans (Ribollita).

Bordering Tuscany to the east and the south, Umbria produces some of the best oils coming out of Itay.  The landscape isn’t dramatically different from Tuscany’s, but the climate is a bit warmer, so Umbrian oils tens to be a bit riper, milder and more pleasing to the tongue.  You can use the smooth and silky Umbrian oils much like the Tuscan oils, but we reserve them for less robust dishes, and drizzle them on bean or vegetable soups, like the Umbrians do.

Eighty percent of olive oil production comes from the South.  Apulia (Puglia) is to Italian olive oil what Languedoc is to French wine:  It produces more olive oil than any other region, but until recently most of it was ordinary fare sold in gallon tins.  Now that farmers see the prices good olive oil commands in the United States, however, more high quality oil is being sold under the labels of individual producers.  Good Apulian oil has a round, balanced flavor, without the assertive bitterness of Tuscan oils, making it a good all-purpose oil.  It’s also sweeter and more buttery than its northern counterparts because olives ripen more in the warmer climate of Italy’s heel.  A Puglian olive oil can have a delectable almond flavor.  The almond trees are often grown among the majestic olives, lending a particular benefit to the olive groves.  A dish Orecchietic and Broccoli must have the taste of the oil from Aduclia or Calabria.  The simpler the dish, the greater the need for the best oil.  Puglia cuisine is based on vegetables, together with fish and pasta.  There is a strong connection with the oils for quality – and is never questioned in quantity. 

Extra virgin olive oil is exported everywhere – and often mixed to produce pure.  The oils, specifically from Bitonto, are held in highest regard.  The other important products of Puglia are fish (the sea along Puglia’s long coastline is comparatively clean, free of large towns and tourists) and cheese. —Whether fresh or aged, dried or smoked (Mozzarella/Provolone, etc).  Vegetables and cheese are often part of a meal that has pasta as the main course – types/shapes more numerous than anywhere else.  The meat for making a ragu is often horsemeat, as Pugliese prefer its slight sweetness.  Puglieses eat a considerable amount of lamb and kid.  Beef and wild game are rare…but they are proud of their homemade bread – which marks Le Puglie as a region with ancient traditions.  Puglia olive oil green with yellow reflections.  It has a distinct olive smell, medium fruitiness, and a taste reminiscent of cooked beans/ripe tomatoes.  It is appropriate on meats, soups, and vegetables.

In Sicily, the prime oils come from the warmer, western side of the island.  After lagging behind the rest of Italy for decades, Sicily now boasts three DOPs (Denomanazione Di Origine).  Because Sicily is mountainous, the island produces oils like Olio Verde and Barbera Frantonia that are every bit as grassy and throat catching as classic Tuscan oils.
Lake Garda, sandwiched between Veneto and Lombardy, would seem to be too far north for olive trees to grow.  But the Lake moderates temperatures, allowing for a small production of generally good oils.

In Emilia-Romagna, dairy cows are more prominent than olive trees, but their olive oil has an aggressively grassy nose, rich flavor and plenty of grip.  You find out about a lot of olive oils by talking to winemakers, who have much in common with olive oil producers.

Producers in regions such as Marche, Basilicata, Calabria, Sardinia, Latium and Campania, make some good olive oils that are unfortunately, hard to find.  This is because there isn’t yet a great demand for them and distribution systems in these regions are poor.  Some oils show a harvest or an expiration date.  Pay attention to these dates, and keep in mind that olive oil is ideally consumed within 18 to 24 months of production – younger and fresher always tastes better. As oils age, they lose that intense fruitiness and any peppery edge they may have ever had.  So don’t hoard the new Sicilian treat you discovered on your last rip to Italy.  There is no point in trying to impress your friends with old oil.

Italians are master blenders -- and we find their oil generally lighter, thinner (and some would say) blander than Spanish...so as not to dominate the food.  However, if the oil is pale green, the olives are picked when the olives started turning purple.  If the oil is very pale, it means that the olives were picked when ripe, after they turned black.  The “riper” the olive, the more “oily” the flavor, and the more pronounced the olive taste.  Some say that the best olive oil is made in odd-numbered years, although this cannot be said to be a hard or fast rule.  The green reflections, characteristic of fruity and tender-tart liquids, correspond to olives that have not reached maturity; glints of golden yellow correspond to sweet olives, harvested late in the season. 

The Italian government has decided to create a Denominzaion di Origine (DOC) system for olive oil.  The DOC law went into effect in 1992.  The regulations will apply only to Extra Virgin/Virgin olive oil -- those that contain no more than 2% of oleic acid.  Furthermore, the oils must be cold pressed, and cannot be chemically extracted.  The Agriculture Ministry will set up a National Committee for the Oversight of the DOC law for Oils, which will designate production zone boundaries and quality standards for each zone, as well as enforce regulations.  The law also provides for establishment of an official tasting commission in each DOC zone to taste/approve oils before they can be sold.

To check against fraud, DOC law dictates that producers list their trees/orchards in registrars maintained by professional organizations.  Producers will have to keep records of shipments, including names of bottlers, shippers, or dealers that take delivery of the oil.  The Agriculture Ministry has already launched a campaign to prevent fraud in the making of olive oil in Italy...approximately 1200 random samples will be collected from Italy’s retail outlets this year and analyzed to see that they meet production/processing requirements.  This is not unlike the samples they took from the United States the past five years -- and had analyzed.  We can report that we passed with flying colors.

In Italy, there are flavors to please every palate, as there are probably the greatest diversity of olives to be found anywhere in the world.  Olive oil is very much a matter of personal taste, and to compare the olive oils of different countries is invidious.  It is certainly true that the oils of Italy offer a different organoleptic experience from the golden oils of Spain, or the robust oils of Greece.  Our grandmother would only admonish us to use “Bono Olio”-- good oil.

In London, there is a famous joke about an impoverished noble who used to make ends meet by attending receptions with the duty of “salad dresser” since he knew hundreds of different dressings.  Would he have done the same in Italy, he would have died from starvation.  In Italy, the only way to dress one’s salad is with olive oil, some vinegar, a pinch of salt, maybe some spices.  For the Italians this is the rule, while abroad this is called “Italian dressing”.  However, there is an old Italian adage that it takes four people to make a salad:  A miser to pour the vinegar…a spendthrift for the olive oil…a wise man to season it…and a madman to toss it all about!

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Specialty Oils

Flavored Oils

There is a long tradition in Europe of infusing oils with such aromatics as garlic, lemon, herbs, and other flavors.  Citrus fruits are being used which result in oils that are great on salads, over fish, and in sauces.  The value of keeping these oils on hand in the kitchen is that one can add the fresh taste of basil to a dish in the middle of January, spice up bruschetta, etc. 

Typically flavored olive oils are made by crushing organic fruit with the olives, before the oil is extracted.  The oils from the rinds of the fruit get blended with the oil of the olive.  This procedure gives a fresh, true flavor to the oils.

We suggest when preparing infused oils that you put herbs in the oil, wash them carefully and pat them dry, as you do not want to introduce anything else into the oil.  We recommend using only freshly prepared infusions.  Adding olive oil, and oil infusions to dishes is a healthful, easy way to add flavor.

As consumers' craving for more exotic dishes continues to increase, you will find that our golden olive oil can spice up their menus, and customers’ sales.

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Fruttato

Our Fruttato olive oil from Italy has two premium characteristics:

It comes from Umbria, where the olives are handpicked, crushed in the old world tradition with stone wheels.  It is green in color, with a pronounced fruit flavor, hence “Fruttato”.

Organic Olive Oil

Organic food products - or those touted as such - have enjoyed such widespread appeal that growers and food producers are quick to slap the term on their label.  But without government regulation, or an accepted industry standard, consumers have had no assurance of consistent procedures.  Now that is changing.  Following the lead of Washington State, 11 other states developed certification programs.  Another five require certification, though they don’t have their own programs.  Thirty private certification agencies operate in the United States, and national standards are on the horizon.  The federal government is in the final days of hearing comments on a proposed regulation to implement national standards and national certification for organic foods.  The regulation is under development by the USDA as a result of the passage of the Organic Food Production Act of 1990. 

The problem with the proposed laws was that they allowed irradiated and bioengineered foods to  be considered organic, according to industry members.  These practices are not allowed under current standards.  The collective voice of the organic industry reached the USDA loud and clear, resulting in the department’s May statement that it is making “fundamental revisions” to the proposed laws.  Irradiated and bioengineered foods, along with foods fertilized with waste materials, are no longer up for consideration as organic.  A revised set of organic standards will be released by the end of this year.  And again, the USDA welcomes comments.  Katherine Di Matteo, executive director of the Organic Trade Association, explains the consensus opinion of her members on the term.  “Organic is an agricultural production system that grows food in harmony with nature, without the use of toxic persistent chemicals in fertilizers, weed control or pest control.  In the processing of organic agriculture, the use of unnecessary incidental additives and processing techniques is avoided and eliminated.”  

In the production of organic oil, no petroleum solvents are used to extract oil from sources nor would propylene glycol be used to stabilize oil products.  Cold pressing as opposed to heat pressing is used in the processing of oils.  In this way, the state of ingredients used to make the finished products are not altered.  We offer two expeller-pressed oils – organic refined, and unrefined extra virgin (Fruttato).  Unrefined olive oil has been only slightly strained to remove large particles.  Unrefined oils may appear cloudy, with visible sediment after sitting.  They have a darker, golden color and a more assertive flavor.  Expeller-pressed, organic olive oils, stored well and used fresh, are ideal for nutritional health.

The basics of organics is what happens on the farm.  When organic products are processed, no synthetic-based stabilizers or incidental additives can be used.  “For a product to be labeled organic, 95% or more of the ingredients would have to be organically grown.  The other 5% or less are items one can’t find organically, such as baking soda, baking powder, or citric acid.”  

Prior to the 1940s, farmers didn’t use many chemicals.  But there was no consistent practice of good farming principles to keep soil healthy and minimize environmental damage.  In the early 1900s, writings by Sir Albert Howard and Lady Eve Balfour in England proceeded the whole thought of chemicals.  In the ‘40s and ‘50s, the use of chemicals became popular and the U.S. Department of Agriculture adopted chemical usage as policy.

Then the agricultural revolution began, and J.R. Rodale began to observe the dangers of too many chemicals being used in agriculture.  In 1960, Rachel Carson wrote Silent Spring, which reinforced what was at the time only known to a handful of people.  Agricultural policy was affected as the registration of pesticides and tolerance levels were developed, in some cases taking products off the market.  In the meantime, a small but steady set of principles and standards were being developed around the ideas of these early writings.  By the mid ‘70s, there were organized farmer groups; and out of these came organic certification groups.  By 1975, principles and practices were written down and followed on farms all around the country.  A system of standards and verification through certification began to catch hold.  By 1980, Washington was the first state to implement state laws regarding organic production and to create a state-run certification system.

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Process for Organic Extra Virgin Olive Oil  (Italy)

How do I know its Organic?

Look for the words:  “third party certified organic”.  When a grower or processor is certified organic, an independent public or private organization verifies that it meets or exceeds defined organic standards.  These standards include:

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How to Store Olive Oil

There are only four (4) enemies of olive oil:

      Age                  Air                    Heat                 Light

Olive oil should be stored at a cool temperature (below 70° F) and away from heat and light.  Like wine, olive oil should be tightly capped against air.  Olive oil is best consumed within 12-18 months of pressing for peak flavor.  As olive oil degrades over time, its acidity level goes up.  Plastic will impart a taste.  Do not refrigerate olive oil, as the trauma of crystallizing/liquefying will harm quality extra virgin.  Condensation can form inside the bottle, and dilute its contents.

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How to taste Olive Oil

Olive oil tastings are becoming popular events -- they can be great fun, and provide an excellent way to discover a personal preference.  Today, tasters' first cleanse their pallet with apple slices to allow for the full flavor, then dip their bread (rubbed with garlic and lightly salted) into the oil, then taste...and savor.  Olive oil enhances the flavor (edonistic compound) of the olfactory, gustative, tactile and visual sensations.

An olive oil tasting is conducted much like a wine tasting, but unlike wine, olive oil is always better in the year of its production and the appearance of the olive oil is not a tasting factor.  Olive oil is evaluated in 3 steps – with the nose, paletie, and throat.  As the saying goes:  Tasting is Believing!  Olive oil is judged by organoleptic properties.  Pour two teaspoons in a cup or glass. Cradle with one hand, and cover with the other to warm. Then notice the

Color

   Hold a clear container of olive oil up to the light.

Aroma/Bouquet

Pour a spoonful of olive oil into a small glass.  Warm the content in the palms of your hands - to liberate the volatile aroma detected by your nose.  Bring the glass close to your nose, inhale slowly/deeply, 2-3 times in succession.  Memorize the sensation received:

Flavor

Pour 10 drops onto your cupped tongue.  Move it slightly, consider the viscosity - its feel on the roof of your mouth, then clench your teeth.  Move your tongue forward to touch the back of your upper teeth.  Semi-close your lips, then use your stomach muscles to inhale rapidly 2-3 times in succession. The air, mixed with the oil, spreads over your tongue/palate.  Spit out the oil.  If necessary, repeat the tasting, but only after you’ve cleansed your mouth with natural water or an apple slice.

Some words used to describe olive oil flavor:

mild, mellow, fruity, fragrant, nutty, zesty, peppery, light, grassy, heavy, intense, sweet, rich, assertive, subtle, delicate, slightly spicy, almond, apple, bitter, metallic, old, pungent, sweet

Should be fresh, neither too bland/heavy.  Olive oil should linger - create a wonderful “finish”.  Olive oil should be light, delicate and burst with a sunny flavor.

If the olive oil has a fresh vibrancy, that may you feel like coughing once or twice. You call this the “Two-cough Taste”, and it is the final mark of a fresh/piquant extra virgin olive oil.

Bread is not appropriate in tasting, as yeast changes the taste, and bread’s texture can obscure an oily viscosity in your mouth.  Between tastes, cleanse the pallet with an apple, or sparkling water.  Don’t over do it.  Limit yourself to six (6) types.

Olive oil cannot be judged, then, by acidity, aroma, color, flavor, grade, or region...individual preference, must dictate.  We support our theme that our oil “makes good taste great”.  We don’t mean to sacrifice a virgin, as olive oil is meant to be tasted/used, not wasted.

The choice, then, is yours.  We know you should stock Napoleon - we offer you our oil in plastic, glass, barrels and tins, large or small, extra light, extra virgin, pomace or pure, French, Greek, Italian, or Spanish.  Let the consumer choose - the colors of our labels highlight the difference of origin or grade.

We have local stocks, advertise/coupon throughout the West, and have come to dominate both the restaurant and retail business - by support of our brand and you, our customer.  You, as buyer, offer to your customers the “miracle” ingredient, used by the area’s finest chefs, and discriminating consumers.

The International Olive Oil Council (IOOC) has a toll-free number for buyers/consumers who have questions regarding olive oil:  call 800-232-6548, Monday-Friday, 9-5 EST. 

The North American Olive Oil Association is a trade association of importers, marketers, and packagers of olive oil in the United States and Canada, and their respective suppliers abroad.  Established in 1989, the association strives to foster a better understanding of olive oil, its versatility and health benefits.  For more information about olive oil and the NAOOA, visit www.aboutoliveoil.org.

We think you will find us to be a most competitive brand, with the highest standards of quality/service level, and that we offer a choice.  We support this choice by promotion and consumer education...in other words, we dedicate ourselves to the dictates of our expanding customer base.

There are many good books dealing with olive oil, but we can suggest four:

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